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Curves and cracks
My adventures across the wide world


The Sierra Gorda
The Tail of the Dragon pales in comparison. Eighteen kilometers. Three hundred and eighteen curves. In the United States, that’s enough to create a legend. Yet, compared to the road through the Sierra Gorda—the "Fat Mountain Range"—it is merely a mild tease. Today, I’m heading to Jalpan de Serra. Put that way, it doesn’t sound particularly spectacular. Except that the road leading there is one of the most winding and extreme in Mexico. Motorcyclists and truck drivers speak of


Frida the Rebel
I have to confess everything. Ever since Adelita (my motorcycle) came into my life, I hadn’t been… satisfied. Adelita was certainly pretty, but—I have to admit—far too heavy for me. Every time I set out for a ride, I did so reluctantly, and let’s face it: you don’t get anywhere when you’re feeling that way. After a lot of hesitation—and taking the time to accept that I’d made a costly mistake but that it’s never too late to set things right—I started browsing Marketplace. A f


Amealco de Bonfil: dolls, pulque, and Martian dunes
I have a secret agenda. After two wonderful motorcycle trips to *pueblos mágicos*, I’ve decided to visit as many of them as possible. Today, I’m setting off to discover Amealco de Bonfil, perched at an altitude of over 2,500 meters amidst pine and oak trees. A "Pueblo Mágico" (Magic Town) is an official designation awarded by the Mexican government to localities possessing great cultural, historical, architectural, or natural richness. There are currently 177 of them. After a
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