Oaxaca - A princess's journey
This morning, I’m headed toward the state of Oaxaca—the true goal of this trip. The roads are so perfect that, for a fleeting moment, I wondered if the governor of Querétaro had tipped off his counterpart in Oaxaca about my arrival. Everything has been repaved; even the curves seem to have been redesigned with an enthusiastic motorcyclist in mind. They haven’t even had time to paint the white lines yet. It’s a little slice of paradise. I thought the roads in the state of Querétaro were excellent, but… Oaxaca makes them pale in comparison.
A brief stop at the Helia Bravo Hollis Botanical Garden in Zapotitlán Salinas. This international garden is dedicated to the flora of semi-arid regions—most notably the columnar cacti known as *tetechos*, which can live for centuries and grow to over 10 meters in height. It is named after Mexico’s first female biology graduate.
Helia Bravo Hollis was as resilient as the cacti she studied: she grew up during the Revolution, classified over 700 species, published nearly 200 articles, and continued working until the age of 99.
In the field, she was fearless. At a time when a woman traveling alone in the desert was frowned upon, she traversed Mexico’s most arid regions—on foot or by mule—to collect cacti. A true force of nature, and an inspiring role model.
The palo verde has green bark that allows it to continue photosynthesis even when it loses its small leaves during periods of drought.
Philiberto, our guide
In this same location, deep in the mountains, one can find springs of... salt water.
More than 100 million years ago, this region lay beneath the sea.
As the water receded, it left behind significant salt deposits trapped within the mountains.
When it rains, water seeps into the rocks and later emerges as springs.
Thanks to the arid climate, the water held in the basins—known as salt pans—evaporates rapidly.
This traditional, small-scale practice has been carried out in the region for over 2,000 years.
credit: Agencia Enfoque
This wonderful visit whets my appetite, so when my companion suggests a stop at a small restaurant in Santiago Huajolotitlán called (Mar y Tierra), I accept with enthusiasm.
We are welcomed by Sinaï Dehumo, an enthusiastic young chef. Her restaurant is very charming and the menu looks appetizing—but the reality far exceeds my expectations. She serves us *enchiladas suizas* and *chilaquiles* with *salsa roja*. While these two dishes can be found all over Mexico, her personal touch makes them even more flavorful—a delight for both the eyes and the palate. And speaking of the palate or palace… well, let’s just say I was treated like a princess!
At the end of the meal, she treats us to one of her creations: a scoop of artisanal chocolate ice cream, topped with guava jam infused with a secret herb—pápalo—which aids digestion.
At the end of the day, I crossed the San Juan Teposcolula geological fault (ground movements, amplified by earthquakes, frequently cause cracks in the road). I find it quite thrilling to pass over a "geological fault," but fortunately, everything is calm today.
Credit: libertad-oaxaca.info
Finally, I arrive in San Pedro y San Pablo Teposcolula.
This *Pueblo Mágico* features an open-air chapel—the largest in Latin America. It was built in the 16th century by the Dominicans to celebrate Mass outdoors for the indigenous crowds who were unwilling to enter an enclosed building.
credit: Isra H.Ortega
The church houses a monumental organ.
The evening concludes with a craft beer at the Hotel Jardín Plaza, while watching life in the city center. Tomorrow, after a night spent in a former hacienda, I will continue my exploration of Oaxaca.
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