top of page

In souls nobly born, valour does not depend upon... kilometres

Updated: Jul 1, 2023

The Chemin du Roy, from Quebec to Trois-Rivières

Several circuits are proposed by my guide Motorcycling Quebec. I chose section 9 "Along the St-Laurent river". The road silently snakes from a side to the other of the 138 with the speed limits changing constantly between 30 and 90 km/h.

Today the temperature is perfect. My clothes have been prepared last night, so breakfast, second coffee, and off I go.

It starts well. At Cap-Santé, the route that goes along the river is bucolic. It glides under the cover of the trees up the hillside and allows patches of sky to brighten the day. Magnificent 🤩

I then joined the Vieux Chemin which was crowned “The most beautiful street in Canada” by the Globe and Mail. This title is well deserved.

Next, I stop at the Anglican Church of St-John-the-Evangelist, located in Portneuf and built in 1884. Its Gothic Revival-inspired architecture is simple and calming. Nearby, the Minister's Hill stopover offers toilets, sheltered picnic tables and a colorful work of art, made up of dozens of birdhouses. You can admire the river while enjoying a snack... or use the toilets... to free yourself from the second coffee. 😉

The Chemin du Roy is really winding. In Grondines, the speed is limited to 30 k/h. Fortunately, because it is also the Route Verte used by many cyclists and by children who use it as a race track for their vehicles.

In Ste-Anne de la Pérade, the Chemin de l'Ile du Large is my favorite of the day. A small road leading to the river, above which the branches of the trees join to form a leafy dome.

A stop to eat at the Microbrasserie Le Garage. A simple but tasty menu, with a terrace to enjoy the summer.

The Halte de Champlain is the meeting place for motorcyclists who stop to chat and admire motorcycles of all kinds. I have an uplifting discussion about the roadside test coming up for me in the fall.

I arrive in Trois-Rivières and suddenly I remember that I did not have dessert and that I really like tasting local products. A stop at Véniel Fines Gourmandises... and here I am, licking a Quebec's strawberries ice cream. This shop is a real Ali Baba cave, I encourage you to stop by.

Last stop is the Ile St-Quentin park, the jewel of Trois-Rivières. You can walk, swim and even wakeboard there.

I had planned to continue my journey to Berthierville and sleep there. However, by checking the weather forecast, I see that I should return in the rain the next day, so I decide to go home.

The return road proposed by my guide takes roads further north of the river, across land. Let's say it's not a revelation. From Trois-Rivières to St-Louis-de-France, a road without interest, and from St-Louis-de-France to Sainte-Geneviève de Batiscan, a road without interest and ... dangerous. Bumps, holes, crevices, gravel and sand in the curves. In Ste-Geneviève I have enough. So... hop on the highway and back home.

My conclusion? It's really worth taking the time to follow the Chemin du Roy. The signage for this path was created in 1999 to improve the tourist experience for visitors and it is a success across the board.

2 views0 comments

Recent Posts

See All


bottom of page